Exploring the Magical Landscape of H.C. Andersen's Native Land in Scandinavia

Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in oversized shimmering pantaloons, visible exclusively in my view. Children relax in a rock pool acting as ocean creatures, and nearby sits a chatting legume in a showcase, alongside a tall pile of bedding. This is the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s highly cherished writers. I'm visiting Odense, on the island of the island of Fyn in the south of this Nordic country, to investigate Andersen’s timeless impact in his native city 150 years after his death, and to experience a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

HC Andersens Hus is the local museum celebrating the storyteller, including his childhood house. A curator notes that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. His personal history was explored, but The Little Mermaid were absent. For guests who travel to this place in search of fairytale wonder, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of downtown Odense, redirecting a primary street, created the chance to rethink how the local celebrity could be celebrated. A major architecture competition granted the Japanese company Kengo Kuma and Associates the contract, with the innovative curatorial vision at the core of the layout. The distinctive timber-clad museum with interlinked spiral spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We’ve tried to build a place where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we talk like the storyteller: with comedy, irony and outlook,” explains the representative. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for strollers and for large beings, it's planned to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he notes, a challenge accomplished by strategic landscaping, manipulating elevation, scale and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote several memoirs and regularly changed his story. The exhibition takes this approach to heart; frequently the perspectives of his companions or excerpts of letters are shown to gently question the his narrative of events. “The writer is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” explains the expert. The result is a engaging rapid journey of his personal story and work, thought processes and favorite narratives. It’s stimulating and whimsical, for adults and children, with a additional basement fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the physical town, the compact town of this Danish city is picturesque, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings painted in cheerful shades. The author's presence is all around: the road indicators display the storyteller with his iconic characteristic hat, brass footprints give a complimentary guided stroll, and there’s a art walk too. Every August this commitment reaches its height with the yearly Andersen celebration, which celebrates the his influence through creativity, performance, stage shows and melodies.

This year, the seven-day event had hundreds of events, many were without charge. While visiting the city, I encounter artistic acrobats, ghoulish monsters and an author double telling stories. I experience empowering poetry and observe an remarkable nocturnal display with graceful performers coming down from the town hall and dangling from a crane. Still to come in the coming months are presentations, family art workshops and, expanding the oral history further than the writer, the city’s annual enchantment celebration.

Every excellent enchanted locations require a castle, and this region contains numerous historic homes and manor houses across the island

Biking Adventures

As in other Danish regions, bikes are the best way to get about in the city and a “bicycle route” meanders through the urban core. From the local hotel, I cycle to the free waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a loop around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass linked by a road to the primary land. City residents picnic here following their day, or enjoy a quiet hour fishing, water sports or swimming.

In town, I dine at a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is based on Andersen themes and tales. The literary work Denmark, My Native Land appears during my meal, and proprietor the host shares excerpts, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents love a yarn and it seems that sharing tales is always on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

All good magical places require a castle, and the island boasts over a hundred manors and estates throughout the region. Taking day trips from town, I tour Egeskov Castle, the continent's finely maintained moated palace. While much of it are open to visitors, the castle is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his wife, the princess. I ponder if she would notice a pea through a mound of {mattresses